This blog post is an aberration of sorts, so let me explain where it came from. I do not intend to write about my travels, even those that take me to Japan, which is an important topic here on Barts News. This is, principally, a gaming blog, with only occasional forays into software, visualisations, Japanese and other geek stuff. However, I have written this piece for a travel writing competition a few years back, came across it recently and was saddened to see noone will ever read it, so taking into account it is about Japan and I like it, I've decided to let it slip this one time. Hence, below you can read a brief impression of one of my Japanese trips...
Enoshima is a beautiful island, depicted by Hokusai and Hiroshige, but unfortunately often overlooked by tourists hurrying to Kamakura. The legend says that it emerged from the ocean to accommodate goddess Benten stepping down from heavens.
The train is almost touching the walls of Japanese houses cluttered on the sides of railway when I arrive at Katase-Enoshima station, built in the shape of Ryugu-jo, legendary underwater Dragon Palace. The trip begins with a walk down the long bridge leading to the island, but before I even reach it, I stumble across traditional matsuri (festival), taking place on the beach. Naked men wearing only fundoshi, skimpy loincloth, carry mikoshi, portable shrines, on their shoulders. On each of them a priestess is standing in ceremonial robes, chanting.
Reaching the island, I climb up the hill, passing through a narrow street filled with shops, where adventurous souls may try octopus crepe or fried squid on a stick. In Hetsunomiya, one of many Shinto shrines on Enoshima, I buy omikuji, a little paper with fortune. It turns out to be bad, so I tie it to a special rack, so that the bad things stay in the temple instead of happening in my life. The shrine has a small pavilion displaying Benten statues in two aspects : one naked, smiling, playing biwa (kind of lute), other one dark, threatening, with a sword - a perfect allegory of femininity.
Nearby, there are racks with pink wooden plates adorned by heart, on which couples write their names, praying for good fortune in their relationship. Most are in Japanese, some in English, and some contain only one name, expressing warm wish of some lonely soul to find the missing half.
I climb to the top of Enoshima Lighthouse, a futuristic tower located in the middle of botanical garden, founded by Samuel Cocking, British merchant. The view is breathtaking, with Mount Fuji towering the horizon. I then descend to Saifukuji, the only Buddhist temple on the island, where meditation by fire takes place. Drums, chanting, scent of incense and smoke – the experience is truly mesmerizing.
Tired, I sit down in one of numerous izakayas (traditional Japanese taverns).While I chew on my food (English vocabulary is too limited to describe the taste), the owner opens the window overlooking the cliff and throws small piece of meat. Soon the air is filled with falcons circling over our heads, swooping down to catch the meat.
Following down the stone steps to the rocky shore, I pass by a stone lantern overlooking the Sagami bay and a tsunami warning plate. I finish the trip by taking a ferry back to the mainland. I am rewarded with a great view of the island from the sea and a glimpse of hidden World War II bunker overlooking the bay, otherwise invisible from the shores.
It is a shame that in guidebooks Enoshima is but one point on the list of things to see in Kamakura. It deserves at least a full day to discover it.
Enoshima is a beautiful island, depicted by Hokusai and Hiroshige, but unfortunately often overlooked by tourists hurrying to Kamakura. The legend says that it emerged from the ocean to accommodate goddess Benten stepping down from heavens.
The train is almost touching the walls of Japanese houses cluttered on the sides of railway when I arrive at Katase-Enoshima station, built in the shape of Ryugu-jo, legendary underwater Dragon Palace. The trip begins with a walk down the long bridge leading to the island, but before I even reach it, I stumble across traditional matsuri (festival), taking place on the beach. Naked men wearing only fundoshi, skimpy loincloth, carry mikoshi, portable shrines, on their shoulders. On each of them a priestess is standing in ceremonial robes, chanting.
Reaching the island, I climb up the hill, passing through a narrow street filled with shops, where adventurous souls may try octopus crepe or fried squid on a stick. In Hetsunomiya, one of many Shinto shrines on Enoshima, I buy omikuji, a little paper with fortune. It turns out to be bad, so I tie it to a special rack, so that the bad things stay in the temple instead of happening in my life. The shrine has a small pavilion displaying Benten statues in two aspects : one naked, smiling, playing biwa (kind of lute), other one dark, threatening, with a sword - a perfect allegory of femininity.
Nearby, there are racks with pink wooden plates adorned by heart, on which couples write their names, praying for good fortune in their relationship. Most are in Japanese, some in English, and some contain only one name, expressing warm wish of some lonely soul to find the missing half.
I climb to the top of Enoshima Lighthouse, a futuristic tower located in the middle of botanical garden, founded by Samuel Cocking, British merchant. The view is breathtaking, with Mount Fuji towering the horizon. I then descend to Saifukuji, the only Buddhist temple on the island, where meditation by fire takes place. Drums, chanting, scent of incense and smoke – the experience is truly mesmerizing.
Tired, I sit down in one of numerous izakayas (traditional Japanese taverns).While I chew on my food (English vocabulary is too limited to describe the taste), the owner opens the window overlooking the cliff and throws small piece of meat. Soon the air is filled with falcons circling over our heads, swooping down to catch the meat.
Following down the stone steps to the rocky shore, I pass by a stone lantern overlooking the Sagami bay and a tsunami warning plate. I finish the trip by taking a ferry back to the mainland. I am rewarded with a great view of the island from the sea and a glimpse of hidden World War II bunker overlooking the bay, otherwise invisible from the shores.
It is a shame that in guidebooks Enoshima is but one point on the list of things to see in Kamakura. It deserves at least a full day to discover it.
